September 23, 2010 – The Homecoming after 21 days and 5,206 miles

Homecoming!

After Martin’s Cove, Dad leaned back in the passenger seat: “I just want to get back home to Kare and my own bed.”  This road trip was the longest number of days and most road miles that Dad had ever travelled in one journey in his life.

As I punched the gas and scooted towards Salt Lake, Dad worried, “I hope we don’t arrive too early or Kare won’t be home from the Temple.  It would be so sad to get home and not have Kare there.”  Dad was excited when he called Mom and she was already home getting ready for him.  He told Mom our estimated arrival time, but when it became clear we would get home an hour earlier, Dad quipped:  “Better call Kare and tell her to hide the booze.”  I honestly don’t know where that line came from.

When we pulled to a stop at Sherwood, Dad asked me for some gum to freshen his breath, combed his hair and stepped into the house.  He stood in the piano room for a full minute just smiling and watching Mom move around the kitchen cooking.  Then Dad stepped into the kitchen and he and Mom hugged for a long time.  Dad moved to his favorite chair and started telling stories from the road smiling at Mom like a school boy with a crush repeating over and over, “You haven’t changed at all.  You just haven’t changed.”  Mom didn’t quite know what to make of those comments and puzzled, “I’m not sure if that is a good or a bad thing.  I’m just the same.  Don’t be disappointed.  What did you want me to do, go to one of those makeover factories?”

Wyoming Prong Horn Antelop - Dad's Favorite

After a short while, Dad stood reaching for Mom:  “I just need another big hug.”

Then he leaned into Mom, “Will you give me a back scratch.”  While I tried to do many things for Dad over the past weeks, I never gave him a back scratch (and he never asked for one either).  Mom wiped the cookie dough off her hands and scratched Dad’s back evoking his traditional grunts of pleasure.

Mom explained, “With Fielding away, I got a glimpse of how it would be to be a widow.  You walk into a room and you are invisible.  A man helps give you visibility and recognition.”  Then she turned to Dad, “So you better not die anytime soon, buddy.”  Later she explained that, “It was sad to not have Fielding to tell all my stories to.  He really understands those stories.  Others listen politely, but they don’t have the background that Fielding and I share to really understand and share our stories.”  It was clear that having 56 years of history provides a basis for Mom and Dad to share their stories with the most understanding, meaning and mutual validation.

Deer at Martin's Cove

Then Dad yearned, “Kare, I really wish that this one night, you would come to bed at the same time that I do and not stay up late.  Mom explained that she had especially started her cookies and other chores early so that she could be there for Dad when he got home: “Yes honey, I’ll come to bed with you, but first you have to take a shower and put on clean pajamas.”  During the past weeks, Dad has repeatedly explained how he does not like to take showers and would prefer to sponge off with a wash cloth because he thinks that is easier.  But, after family prayer, it wasn’t too long before I heard the shower running and Dad bumping around in it.  Then Mom and Dad actually went to bed together – which was the first time I ever remember seeing that happen in my entire conscious memory – a fitting end to a perfect road trip.

Sky at Martin's Cove

Mountain Meadow Massacre Memorial - St George

September 22, 2010 – Casper, WYO to Salt Lake City, UT

Devil's Gate

We continued to follow the Mormon Pioneer Trail west along the routes taken by the Willie and Martin handcart companies out of which about 213 people died in severe winter storms.  At Martin’s Cove, we took a four-wheel drive vehicle several miles into the mountains and stood in the place where the Martin Company tried to shelter from the cold, but lost nearly 20 percent of its people.

Dad says:

Traveling across the vast empty spaces of Nebraska and Wyoming at 70 mph made me appreciate anew the fortitude and faith of the pioneers. How did they do it? We saw several of the landmarks which helped them along the way, but we would see these landmarks from 30 - 50 miles away which meant a few minutes travel for us, but several days for them.

Our last stop was Martin's Cove in Wyoming where the freezing and dying pioneers stayed and died daily until rescued.  The details of this horror are depicted thoroughly in displays, statues, and film in and near the Visitor's Center there, but to actually stand at the site itself and ponder the story was as moving to me as anything we've done so far, and a fitting climax to our trip -- other than finally seeing and holding dear Kare. President Hinckley called this a sacred spot -- even "a temple." I would agree.



Martin's Cove







Statue at Martin's Cove











Statue at Martin's Cove



September 21, 2010 – North Platte, NE, to Casper, WYO

We followed the Mormon Pioneer Trail west from Missouri, through Iowa and Nebraska and into Wyoming, mostly along the North Platte River.  We say residual ruts in the hillsides carved by thousands of pioneer wagons and appreciated many of the landmarks that the pioneers saw after months on the flat prairies including Courthouse/Jail Rock, Chimney Rock, and Scott’s Bluff.

As Dad read the blog today, he noted, “The blog is pretty good . . . It just needs more commas.”  That statement reminded me of many other backhanded comments that Dad expressed throughout the trip.  For example, after describing one sweet Church sister, Dad couldn’t help but add, “She’s funny as a crutch and has a cheap-looking daughter.”



Scott's Bluff













Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock

September 20, 2010 - Monday - Independence, MO to North Platte, NE (about 430 miles and 7 hours)

Church of Christ (Temple Lot)

Today was primarily a traveling day taking us from Independence, Missouri to North Platte, Nebraska.  Along the way we finished listening to “Joseph Smith the Prophet” by Truman Madsen.

Throughout this trip, Dad has been tremendously fascinated by the endless corn fields, how corn is harvested and what good use can be made of residual corn stalks.  These questions have been building for weeks in the car.  Finally today, I told Dad to drive so that I could Google the answers and we could end all this talk about corn.  Well we did find all the answers, but the discussion did not end.  Even after 10 pm tonight, there we were, two old white guys huddled around a computer fascinated by You Tube videos of corn harvesting combine machines.  What is happening to us?

Community of Christ Temple

An historic moment occurred tonight as we stepped out of the car at our motel into the Nebraska farmland and Dad uttered his first complaint of the entire trip wrinkling his nose: “The air reeks like a barnyard.”  He repeated the complaint several times during dinner.  I guess the Heavens heard his petition and before we could leave the restaurant, a torrential rainfall poured out of the skies cleansing the air and making it sweet again.

As we dodged through the cold rain to our dry car and warm motel, we felt greater appreciation for our pioneer ancestors who had to walk and sleep outside in these types of conditions on these very plains.

Pondering it All

Dad says:

Mark’s above account of the “Miracle of the Barnyard” is accurate.  Maybe it’s inevitable that after driving all day with no pioneer sites or inspirational places to enjoy, my attitude became impatient and easily negative.  Mark’s interpretation of the cleansing effect as being a gift from Heaven seems right under the circumstances.

We continue to wend our way homeward, though with much still to see in Wyoming.  The thought of hugging Kare and sleeping in my own bed is delightful indeed - - and is in no way a reflection on Mark who continues to be the Caretaker of Caretakers.

In the flat state of Nebraska, I’m surprised that the Platte River which the Saints followed has enough grade to make it flow.  But it is wonderfully fertile country and provides corn for this nation and others.  On my request, Mark Googled “What becomes of old corn stalks, and are they used in any way?”  The answer is interesting if you care enough to Google it yourself.

Walking in Adam-ondi-Ahman

Referring to our previous two days, I had feelings of great respect for the efforts the Church has made to protect its historic sites.  I’d heard that Adam-ondi-Ahman was nothing to see because there’s no development of buildings or structures there.  However, the Valley of Adam-ondi-Ahman and Spring Hill and Tower Hill, so beautifully cared for, speak of great events past and future to happen there.

Our Sunday was most unusual.  It began with our own Church meetings and then included visits to the highly unusual Temple and Conference Center of the Community of Christ (RLDS).  Everywhere we encounter these people, they are courteous, warm and dedicated.

We also had contact with the Church of Christ (Temple Lot) which is one of scores of remnants of our Church resulting from our move west.  We had a delightful hour discussion with an Elder of that Church whose sincerity was heartfelt but whose information about that Church left much to be desired.  They hold only the Temple Site itself which Joseph identified in August of 1831 before the Church moved to Kirtland, plus their own building next to that Site.

There are at least seven factions of the Church right in Independence and many others elsewhere (one estimate is at least 150).

Sunday we also visited the Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and burial site.  It’s beautifully done and certainly justifies my high impression of this “little man” who served as a giant for his two terms following the sudden death of President Roosevelt.  Truman faced huge decisions regarding the wars and the economy.  He met them squarely, and in my opinion, made right decisions.  He is still criticized by many for some of those decisions including authorizing the dropping atom bombs on Japan.

As this day ends, there’s a downpour of drenching rain.  How would it have been to be in such weather in a covered wagon or even less?

September 19, 2010 - Sunday in Independence, MO

At the Temple Lot, Independence, MO

We started the day attending the LDS Church in a ward where at least half of the members were Samoan – with their great spirit.  Afterwards, we visited the Temple Lot dedicated by Joseph Smith in 1831 and which is currently owned by The Church of Christ commonly known as the "Hedrickites."  One of the Church Elders invited us into the onsite chapel to discuss the Temple Lot and his church.  Dad is in his full glory when talking religious history and doctrine in a situation like this.

Community of Chris Temple

Then we walked across the street and toured the Temple and headquarters of the Community of Christ (formerly RLDS).  We also enjoyed an organ recital in the Community of Christ’s massive Assembly Hall.

We ended the day by walking through the Harry S. Truman Memorial Library and Museum and gained a greater appreciation for the difficult decisions that President Truman faced in connection with dropping the atomic bomb, handling the economic problems after WWII, and dealing with the Cold War and Korean War.

Community of Christ Temple

During dinner at Dennys, an interior roof tile soaked from leakage after last night’s rain suddenly crashed down to the floor barely missing us.  A few inches closer and we would have had a great law suit.

Tonight I did our laundry and when I brought all the clean clothes back to the room hot from the dryer, Dad asked me to pile the toasty laundry on him because it felt good.  Then he drifted off to sleep under the heap of clothing.



President Truman Museum



Dad sleeping under pile of warm laundry

September 18, 2010 - Missouri

Spring Hill at Adam-ondi-Ahman

Today we visited the rolling hills of Adam-ondi-Ahman, the temple cornerstones in Far West, the Liberty Jail, and the Visitor’s Center in Independence, Missouri.  This was the first time that either of us had visited these sites.  Adam-ondi-Ahman was much more beautiful and spacious than either of us anticipated.

Tonight we enjoyed a visit and dinner with George and Susie Van Komen who are currently serving as the Mission President and wife covering the area encompassing all the sites we saw earlier today.  The Van Komens are from Mom and Dad’s Monument Park 13^th Ward and Susie Van Komen was a special Sunday School teacher to Marcus.  We enjoyed feeling the Van Komens’ enthusiasm and spirit.  We ended the evening with a torrential rain with blazing lightening and thunder. 

Valley of Adam-ondi-Ahman

Far West Temple Corner Stones

President and Sister Van Komen

September 17, 2010 - Nauvoo and Carthage, IL

Statue of Joseph and Hyrum on their Last Ride

We enjoyed the morning in Nauvoo taking a horse and wagon ride through the countryside while listening to inspiring stories.  We then visited the home of Jonathan Browning who invented the first repeating rifle and many other guns and stayed faithful to the Church until his death.  We saw John Taylor’s home, the Trail of Hope and Hyrum Smith’s home.  We rode in an ox cart and learned more of the pioneer hardships.

Then we drove to Carthage and toured the jail where Joseph and Hyrum were martyred.  I touched the bullet hole in that remains in the door and through which Hyrum was shot and killed.  I lingered alone in that upper room and felt the faith of our deceased loved ones.

Carthage Jail

Dad says:

We left Nauvoo today by traveling down Parley Street, reading quotes mounted along the way.  President Hinckley suggested that anyone who can should walk down this street in memory of those who took this path on the way to the Mississippi, having been driven from Nauvoo.  Thousands left between February and July of 1846, leaving behind their lovely homes, and facing an unknown wilderness.

                        

The most touching experience for me today was visiting Carthage and the very prison where Joseph and Hyrum were gunned down on June 27, 1844.  The thought most impressed on me as I sat contemplating this event was the wonderful brotherly love between Hyrum and Joseph.  While Joseph was the Prophet, Hyrum was his counselor and strong supporter in all events from the First Vision to the Martyrdom.  It is touching to me that Hyrum, six years older than Joseph, was entirely content to play the supporting role.  The beautiful twin statues standing now in front of the Carthage Jail show Hyrum slightly behind and taller than Joseph, with his hand on Joseph’s shoulder indicating Hyrum’s total support.  The integrity of Hyrum, my great, great grandfather and your great, great great grandfather was stronger than death.  As stated in D&C 135:3,6: “In life they were not divided, and in death they were not separated  . . . . They lived for glory; they died for glory; and glory is their eternal reward.  From age to age shall their names go down to posterity as gems for the sanctified.”

Upper Room where Joseph and Hyrum were Shot

We have much to live up to, each of us.

Pondering it All

Upper Window from which Joseph fell dead

Statue of Joseph and Hyrum

Soaking it all in

September 16, 2010 - Nauvoo, IL

Nauvoo Temple

We spent the day in Nauvoo, IL starting at the LDS Visitor’s Center, then taking a horse and wagon ride through the Historic District, then visiting the Community of Christ Visitor’s Center, and finishing up at the Cultural Hall with a musical play called “Rendez Vous” and acted by senior missionaries.  The most powerful moment for me was visiting the cemetery where Joseph, Emma, Hyrum, Joseph Smith Sr, Lucy Mack Smith and so many of our ancestors are buried after sacrificing so much for their faith.

Overlooking the Mississippi

Graves of Joseph, Emma and Hyrum

Graves of Joseph and Lucy Mack Smith

Visitors Center Statue Garden

Dad with Cast Members

September 14-15, 2010 – Milan, OH to Nauvoo Illinois (536 miles and 10 hours)

Amish Family and Buggy

We visited the Menno-Hof Amish-Mennonite Visitors Center in Shipshewana, Indiana, and learned a great deal about the history and teachings of the Amish and Mennonites.  It was interesting to hear their stories of persecution for beliefs and coming to America for religious freedom.

We arrived in Nauvoo late afternoon and Dad attended a session at the Nauvoo Temple.  On this trip, Dad is averaging one Temple session a week which is a pretty good record.

Dad says:



Nauvoo Temple



After traveling across Illinois all day, we arrived at Nauvoo where I was fortunate to attend a session in the Nauvoo Temple.  The people serving in the Temple are just as warm and friendly as can be and want to do everything possible so that the patrons have a good experience.  During the session, I was very conscious of the fine spirit and remembered Andrew’s willingness to take a week off work to help build this Temple.  He also returned months later for the dedication of this Temple.

Knowing of my ancestry, the Temple personnel guided me to a display area which includes a Temple apron and single slipper belonging to my great, great grandmother, Mary Fielding Smith.  Seeing these clothes made the whole Temple story even more inspiring.

Joseph and Hyrum's Last Ride out of Nauvoo



September 13, 2010 - Kirtland to Hiram to Milan, OH

Dad and the Amish Waitress

We are now about half way through our road trip. As the days go by, Dad and I are definitely becoming less civilized without a woman to keep us from turning to cavemen. Dad has taught me that daily showers are not mandatory and it is possible to wear the same darn shirt day-after-day without washing. During the first week, Dad kept losing his tube of toothpaste, but it always reappeared after a few days hiding in some odd corner of the luggage or Toyota. While the toothpaste was missing in action, Dad preferred to just brush with water rather than borrow my toothpaste.

Oh, and then there’s the food. It’s amazing to see how long unrefrigerated milk is still drinkable and how long you can survive on granola bars without regular meals. Does anyone know how long a Subway sandwich can sit in the back seat of a car and still be eatable? Does it last longer if it is squished flat as a pancake?

John Johnson Farm

We have odd stains on our clothing – but we don’t care. When we do get around to laundry, we get it done “bachelor style” at a public Laundromat throwing the colored and white clothing together in a cold wash, not bothering with any dryer sheets in the dryer, and never ironing a thing. Increasingly, the bathroom door is left open and the toilet seat up during most pit stops. There is also a lot of unrestrained and loud bumping around, grunting, yawning, sneezing, nose blowing, burping, growling stomachs and other audible bodily functions that can be quite jarring. I’m afraid that after another week of this boys’ trip, Mom won’t let either of us back in the house without first sending us to dog obedience school.

Today we continued to visit sites around Kirtland including the Isaac Morley Farm (where the Father and Son appeared in vision), the Stone Quarry (where stones were chiseled for the Kirtland Temple), Mary Yoder’s Amish Kitchen for lunch and the John Johnson Farm (where the Father and Son appeared in vision).

Upper Room at Johnson Farm

Dad says:


Another great day today. We stayed overnight again in Kirtland, and visited three sites of great interest. The Isaac Morley Farm was the locale where the Prophet received about 10 revelations and, with others, saw a vision of the Father and Son. Morley had come into the Church in Kirtland and when the Kirtland Church grew too rapidly to accommodate, he invited the Saints to settle on his farm. Joseph and Emma were lodged in a small home which Morley built for them. The rapid growth of the Church in the Kirtland area was due in large part to there being several congregations (including some of Sidney Rigdon’s) who were waiting for a new church and were experimenting to some extent living the law of consecration on their own.

Pondering in the Grove at the Morley Farm

An especially uplifting moment today was when Mark and I took a path up a hill towards a place that had Morley built a school house for his children and others. This structure became essential for organizing the first High Council and other Church offices. The path leading to that site wends through a beautiful forest very reminiscent of the Sacred Grove. We took a few minutes to sit quietly there to contemplate what we were seeing on our tour.


We also went to the John Johnson Home in the town of Hiram about 30 miles from Kirtland. Here too Emma and Joseph lived for a while when he was “translating” the Bible. Also this was the place where Joseph and Sidney were dragged from their beds in the middle of the night to be tarred and feathered. It was inspiring to stand on the very doorstep from which Joseph preached for two hours (about love and the brotherhood of man) the very next morning after he was attacked. A highlight of this visit was to stand in the room where Joseph and Sidney saw the vision of the degrees of glory (76th Section of the D&C).

Temple Quarry Site

Since Mark had been occupied for some of the early hours with his business affairs, we didn’t do as much travel today, but a highlight of our lodging in the Days Inn tonight was when I left our room to visit a vending machine, but in returning, mistakenly boldly took two or three steps into the room next to ours where a sweet older couple was getting into bed. I backed out so fast, they hardly had time to register my arrival. I can just imagine that sweet woman looking at her husband and asking: “Who was that, darling?”